Mounting the Engine/Gearbox

 The filler cap and the spout on the Ford 1600 X/Flow engine are at the front, which is bad for our design, it limits the height the engine can be mounted at in the chassis to clear the underneath of the bonnet. The filler spout was cut off , shortened and remounted at the rear of the rocker cover to give more clearance, and a disc cut to fit in the original hole to blank it off. I have access to a Tig Welder which are a lot more expensive than a mig welder , but in a trained hand, can give a very small, neat weld as if it was drawn on with a pencil. This gives a very smart finished look, or gives very little excess to soft pad , clean off. The blanking disc can be sanded off flush, and with a fresh coat of matt black paint, becomes invisible. The rocker cover was then mounted back on the engine with a new cork gasket.

 The Locost book shows the method of sitting the engine/gearbox on the floor upright and lifting the chassis over it and into position. 1 inch blocks under the chassis lift it, so the engine oil sump will sit 1 inch below the chassis after assembly. The rear axle is removed to allow lifting the chassis, or you will have to be Mr Universe to lift it all.

 My own build would not work to this plan, my engine was still too high and would not clear the height for the bonnet. Checked by using the 2 inch square wood guide I had made. After experimenting I eventually ended up with just over 2 inch spacing under my chassis. Would the sump sit too low to the ground and bottom out on a bumpy road when my car was complete.

It is actually now 2 3/4 inches, 70mm clear of the ground, but I took measurements from other peoples cars at the shows and many run a more daring closeness to the road than mine!

Now engine and gearbox mountings had to be made to seal the deal. The mountings are made to the photos on the gallery pages, but had to be offered up and trial fitted to the car many times before finally welded. The engine and box are sat as far back as they will go in the engine bay, but still clearing the chassis to avoid any vibration.

 It is now advisable to set the Locost chassis up on four stable corner axle stands. This will make it stable, safe, and at a good height to work on and around. It will also give some access to underneath. It will probably be here a long time and when more major heavy parts are final assembled; you will not be lifting it by hand. Do not worry about getting it down again later as you can lift the front or back down first with a trolley jack when the wheels are fitted, and when one end is down, lift the other end , remove the stands and lower to the final floor position..

With the chassis on secure stands and the Ford engine, gearbox and rear axle fitted, you can sip another large mug of tea , smoke a cigarette and gaze smugly at your beautiful creation. But sorry to spoil the moment! Remember there is much more work still to be tackled.